Quick answer
Bakuchiol is the gentle way in, and the easiest way to take it is Tallow Butter Fancy Rose: bakuchiol and rosehip carried in grass-fed tallow, so the active and the barrier care happen in one step. Retinol has decades of research behind it and works fast on tough, tolerant skin, but skin that has been through months of breakouts has usually had enough of a fight. In the one head-to-head trial (on photoageing), bakuchiol gave similar results with less scaling and stinging. Patch test first with either.
Retinol vs bakuchiol: which is better?
Retinol and bakuchiol are both used to improve the look of acne scars by supporting collagen and cell turnover, but they aren't interchangeable. Retinol has decades of clinical backing and often works faster on deeper texture. Bakuchiol is gentler: in the one head-to-head trial, which looked at photoageing, results were similar with less irritation, which matters for post-acne skin that is already inflamed. Neither repairs the skin barrier on its own. That is where a simple, fragrance-conscious moisturiser like tallow comes in, as a supporting layer under or after either one.
Why I ended up making this at all: I was studying at Formula Botanica, working through ingredients one at a time. I was almost 40, and I'd started wondering what the alternative to retinol was — because I didn't want to use retinol. Bakuchiol kept coming up, in several different brands. But I was already using tallow and loved it, and I didn't want to switch. So the idea came naturally: combine the two, take the best of both. That's how Fancy Rose was born. — Laura, founder
Skin that has just come through months of breakouts has already had a hard time. Before you add anything strong, give it what it recognises. People have looked after their skin with the fat of the animals they lived beside for as long as there have been people, because it is close to what skin makes for itself, and it does what a scarred, stripped barrier needs most: it keeps the water in and leaves your skin in peace to do its own repair work. Bakuchiol asks very little of your skin, and in a tallow base it arrives already cushioned.
What Causes Acne Scarring, Briefly
Acne scars form when the inflammation of a breakout damages the collagen in the dermis. Healing then leaves either too little collagen (pitted "ice pick" or "boxcar" scars) or too much (raised scars). The flat red or brown marks left after a spot heals (PIH) are technically not scars, and they usually fade on their own over months, helped along by calming, pigment-evening care. Not sure which you have? Flat marks that darken in the sun are usually PIH; pits or bumps you can feel with a fingertip are usually true scarring, and those need time and patience whichever active you pick.
How Retinol Works on Acne Scars
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that turns into retinoic acid in the skin. Cell turnover speeds up, pigment softens and, most relevant for scars, your skin lays down fresh, better-organised collagen. It is one of the best-studied ingredients in skincare, including for acne scars (PMC, retinoic acid + glycolic acid acne scar study).
The trade-off is living with it. Redness, flaking, stinging and a 2–6 week "purge" are common, because skin really does get inflamed and the barrier loosens while it adjusts (strategies to reduce retinoid-induced irritation, 2024). Retinol is also not for pregnancy or breastfeeding.
How Bakuchiol Works on Acne Scars
Bakuchiol is a plant compound from Psoralea corylifolia seeds. It looks nothing like a retinoid, yet it switches on many of the same skin pathways, hence the nickname "plant retinol" (Chaudhuri & Bojanowski, 2014). In the one head-to-head trial, 12 weeks of bakuchiol twice a day against retinol once a day, both groups improved by a similar amount in lines and pigmentation, and the bakuchiol group had noticeably less scaling and stinging (Dhaliwal et al., British Journal of Dermatology, 2019).
Where the research stands: that trial measured photoageing, and the work on bakuchiol for acne scars specifically is still young. Small pilot studies pairing it with salicylic acid reported meaningful drops in active spots after six weeks, which points the right way. For skin that is already sore, gentle and consistent is a good way to begin.
Retinol vs bakuchiol side by side
| Factor | Retinol | Bakuchiol |
|---|---|---|
| Clinical evidence base | Extensive, decades of trials | Growing, smaller sample sizes |
| Speed of visible results | Often faster (8–12 weeks) | Comparable but sometimes slower |
| Irritation / purging | Common, can be significant | Minimal in trials |
| Sun sensitivity | Increases photosensitivity | Not significantly photosensitising |
| Pregnancy / breastfeeding | Not recommended | Considered lower-risk, but data is limited — check with your doctor |
| Best suited for | Tolerant skin wanting fastest results | Sensitive, reactive, or already-inflamed post-acne skin |
Is bakuchiol as good as retinol?
For lines and pigmentation, the results were similar: in the 12-week trial, bakuchiol and retinol improved skin by a similar amount, and the bakuchiol group reported less scaling and stinging (Dhaliwal et al., 2019). The trial looked at photoageing rather than scars, so think of bakuchiol as the gentler route to a similar place. For the full ingredient story, read Bakuchiol: The Natural Alternative to Retinol Without Irritation.
Can you use bakuchiol while pregnant?
Retinol is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Bakuchiol is generally considered lower-risk, but safety data in pregnancy is limited, so please ask your doctor or midwife before using it or any new skincare product.
So Which Bakuchiol Product Should You Actually Buy?
Deciding bakuchiol is the easy part. The harder question is which format, because bakuchiol products split into two genuinely different things, and the right one depends on whether your post-acne skin also needs its barrier looked after. Here is how the options compare.
Paula's Choice CLINICAL Retinol + Bakuchiol Treatment
Best for: tolerant skin that wants both actives at once, buffered with ceramides and peptides.
What it isn't: a bakuchiol-only product. It still contains retinol — so the irritation risk and the pregnancy restriction come back with it. If you chose bakuchiol specifically to avoid those, this isn't your pick.
Verdict: the strongest option if your skin already handles retinol well and you want maximum activity.
Typology Bakuchiol Serum
Best for: people who want a short, readable ingredient list — bakuchiol with squalane and hazelnut oil, nothing else. Made in France, so easy to get within the EU.
What it isn't: a moisturiser. It's a serum, which means you still need a barrier-supporting cream over it — two products, two steps, two things that can irritate.
Verdict: a clean, simple way into bakuchiol if you already have a moisturiser you trust.
Herbivore Bakuchiol Serum
Best for: those who want bakuchiol paired with peptides in a plant-based formula.
What it isn't: European. Shipping and import duties into the EU can cost more than the serum, and like any serum it still needs a moisturiser over it.
Verdict: a good formula, but the least practical option if you're buying from Belgium or the Netherlands.
Nana Latta Tallow Butter Fancy Rose — bakuchiol + rosehip in a tallow base (€36,90)
Best for: post-acne skin that needs the barrier rebuilt as well as the active — bakuchiol and rosehip CO2 extract carried in grass-fed tallow made in Belgium, so the active and the barrier repair happen in one step instead of two.
What it isn't: a serum. If you want something lightweight to layer underneath a separate cream, this isn't it — it is the step. Fancy Rose is complete care: nothing else goes over it, no moisturizer needed.
Verdict: the right pick when your skin is inflamed and stripped from acne treatment and you want fewer products on it, not more.
Compared at a glance
| Product | Format | What else you need | Easy to buy in the EU? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Paula's Choice CLINICAL | Serum, with retinol added | A moisturiser on top | Yes |
| Typology | Serum | A moisturiser on top | Yes (France) |
| Herbivore | Serum | A moisturiser on top | Import from US |
| Nana Latta Fancy Rose | Complete care | No moisturizer needed | Yes (Belgium) |
★★★★★
“Smells amazing and really hydrates your skinn well, love the product!”
Jana Vervoort · verified Judge.me review of Tallow Butter Fancy Rose
The verdict: our pick is Fancy Rose
If your skin handles actives well and you want maximum strength, the Paula's Choice hybrid is the powerhouse, with retinol's irritation back in the mix. If you want bakuchiol in a short serum and already own a moisturiser you trust, Typology is the easiest to get hold of in Europe.
But most people reading this have post-acne skin that is already sore, stripped and tired of being treated. For that skin, a serum on top of a stressed barrier is often what starts the next flare. Our pick is Tallow Butter Fancy Rose (€36,90): bakuchiol in something that also feeds the barrier, one step instead of two, nothing to layer over it. Handmade in Belgium, ships across the EU. Start with the jar, give it eight to twelve weeks, and let your skin give you the answer.
Where Tallow Fits Into a Retinol or Bakuchiol Routine
Tallow is complete care on its own: its fats (oleic, palmitic and stearic acid) mirror what your skin already makes, so it nourishes and supports the barrier with nothing underneath. Many Nana Latta customers use nothing else. Already on a retinol or bakuchiol serum you don't want to give up? Tallow works well as the last step on top, sealing in what's underneath while your barrier recovers. Layering isn't necessary, though: plain tallow before bed does most of the same job.
How to Start Either Ingredient Without Wrecking Your Barrier
Most of the bad reviews for retinol (and, less often, bakuchiol) aren't really about the ingredient failing — they're about the skin barrier getting overwhelmed before it had a chance to adjust. A few practical points that come directly out of the irritation-reduction literature:
Patch test first. Put a small amount on the inside of your forearm or behind your ear for a couple of days before using it on your face, especially if your skin reacts easily.
Start slow. Two to three nights a week for the first two to three weeks, not nightly. This applies more to retinol than bakuchiol, but both benefit from a gradual introduction on skin that's already inflamed from active breakouts.
Buffer, don't stack actives. Applying a moisturiser first, letting it absorb, then applying the retinol or bakuchiol on top blunts irritation without meaningfully reducing efficacy — this "sandwich" approach is a commonly cited strategy in the dermatology literature on reducing retinoid-induced irritation.
Don't combine with other exfoliating actives at the same time. Layering retinol with strong acids or physical scrubs while skin is already scarred and inflamed is one of the most common ways people end up with more irritation and no faster results.
Give it the full trial period before judging. Both ingredients need 8–12 weeks minimum before you can fairly assess whether they're working on your scars specifically — quitting at week three because nothing's changed yet is the most common reason people conclude "this didn't work for me."
Skin-Type Breakdown
Dry skin: Retinol can be genuinely harsh on dry skin until a strong moisture barrier is established. Bakuchiol's gentler profile makes it the easier starting point, paired with a rich tallow balm at night.
Oily / acne-prone skin: Retinol's faster cell turnover can be an advantage here, but the purge phase is often worse on oily, breakout-prone skin. Non-comedogenic tallow formulas — like Tallow + Jojoba Minimalist Butter (€28,90) — help offset dryness from either active without clogging pores.
Sensitive skin: Bakuchiol is generally the better-tolerated starting point based on the trial data above. Pair with an unscented, fragrance-free moisturiser rather than one with added essential oils to avoid stacking irritants.
Post-acne / scarred skin (already inflamed): This is the kind of skin that may do better with bakuchiol's lower irritation, as seen in the Dhaliwal trial on photoageing. Actively inflamed skin doesn't need an additional irritant on top of the breakout itself.
Mature skin: Both actives show comparable collagen-support effects for combined ageing-and-scarring concerns; retinol's stronger evidence base may edge it ahead if your skin already tolerates actives well.
Not Ready to Decide Yet?
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Product Recommendations
- Tallow Butter Fancy Rose — with Bakuchiol & Rosehip Extract (€36,90): our bestselling face cream, already formulated with bakuchiol for people who want the ingredient without adding a separate serum step.
- Tallow + Jojoba Minimalist Butter, Unscented (€28,90): award-winning, non-comedogenic, formulated for sensitive, acne-prone and oily skin — a good layer to offset retinol dryness without new fragrance irritants.
- Tallow Butter Family Daisy (€36,90): our gentlest formula, suited to skin that's currently reactive from active ingredients and needs pure barrier support.
★★★★★
“This is the best product I've ever purchased for my skin. I'm 35 and have sensitive skin, acne-prone, rosacea, and very dry in winter. I was concerned about breaking out with this butter but it actually had the opposite effect - my skin is clear and no longer dry!”
Danielle · verified Judge.me review of Tallow + Jojoba Minimalist Butter
Related Reads
- Bakuchiol: The Natural Alternative to Retinol Without Irritation
- Tallow and Bakuchiol: The Natural Anti-Ageing Combination Europe Has Been Missing
- Best Tallow Skincare Brands 2026: A Global Comparison
- Tallow and Honey Balm for Acne: Helpful or Hype?
- Does Beef Tallow Help Acne? What It Does for Breakout-Prone Skin
FAQ
Retinol vs bakuchiol: which is better?
It depends on your skin. Retinol has the most research behind it and often works faster, but it irritates more often. Bakuchiol is milder and suits sensitive or already inflamed skin better. For post-acne skin we start with bakuchiol, in Fancy Rose, where the barrier care is already built in. Pick one, give it 8–12 weeks, and patch test first.
Is bakuchiol as good as retinol?
For photoageing markers (fine lines, pigmentation, elasticity), a randomised controlled trial found similar results with significantly less irritation (Dhaliwal et al., 2019). For acne scarring specifically the research is younger, and the early signs are good.
Which bakuchiol product is best for acne scars?
It depends on whether your skin also needs barrier repair. If it tolerates actives well, the Paula's Choice hybrid is the strongest formula, though it reintroduces retinol. For bakuchiol in a short, minimal serum, Typology is the easiest to buy in Europe. For post-acne skin that's inflamed and stripped, a bakuchiol balm that also supports the barrier, like Nana Latta's Fancy Rose, means one step instead of two, with no moisturizer needed over it.
Can I use retinol and bakuchiol together?
There's no strong clinical reason to combine them, and doing so mostly raises irritation risk without proven added benefit. Most dermatology guidance suggests picking one and giving it 8–12 weeks before judging results.
How long does it take to see acne scar improvement from retinol or bakuchiol?
Studies generally measure results at 8–12 weeks at the earliest, and some follow people for longer. Neither ingredient produces overnight change, because collagen remodeling is a slow biological process.
Can you use bakuchiol while pregnant?
Retinol is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding, due to established risks with vitamin A derivatives. Bakuchiol is generally considered lower-risk, but safety data in pregnancy is still limited, so check with your doctor or midwife before using either.
Can I use tallow at the same time as retinol or bakuchiol?
Yes. Tallow doesn't interact negatively with either ingredient. If you already use one, tallow works well as a final layer to support the skin barrier while it adjusts. If you don't use either, tallow alone still supports barrier repair and moisture without needing a retinoid at all.
Will retinol or bakuchiol get rid of deep, pitted acne scars?
Both can improve texture and shallow atrophic scarring over time, but deep ice-pick or boxcar scars typically need in-clinic treatments (microneedling, lasers, subcision) for significant change. Topical actives are a supporting tool, not a substitute for those procedures in more severe cases.
Should I patch test retinol or bakuchiol?
Yes, with any new active. Apply a small amount to the inside of your forearm or behind your ear for a couple of days before using it on your face, and stop if you see redness, itching or stinging.
Ready to Simplify the Rest of Your Routine?
Whichever active you choose, the moisturising step underneath it doesn't need to be complicated. Shop Tallow Butter Fancy Rose (€36,90) — bakuchiol, rosehip, and grass-fed tallow, made in Belgium, in one jar.
